What is the appeal of unisex eyewear?

For optical retailers the answer is clear: these versatile optical frames can be sold to the entire population, rather than just one half of it or the other, and a wide range of stock can be carried without needing to buy two collections. Women may seek an androgynous, "non-female" frame because they want to convey a serious, professional image at work, or because they don't like a girly look, or because such styles match their wardrobe and activities. For men the distinction between men's and unisex styles is less obvious, but the latter may offer a broader choice of colours and designs than those traditionally found on the men's shelves.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

So what makes a frame unisex? Shape, material, colour, detailing and branding all come into the mix. Brand image and positioning are probably the most important factors. Some brands are so strongly associated with women that it would be a brave man indeed who bought a frame under that label, no matter how "unfeminine" its design. Others, however, have been carefully positioned to appeal to and be associated with both sexes. POS material comes into play here, and many manufacturers offer material depicting their frames worn by both men and women, or material which is designed to be non-gender-specific. Colour is a vital factor in determining whether a frame is unisex or not. Paler colours and red tend to be favoured by women while blues or greens tend to attract men. But colour is a tricky area, where an individual's choice may be affected not only by their own taste but by what is considered acceptable in their work and leisure lives. Black, browns, tortoiseshell and metallic colours such as bronze, gunmetal, silver or gold are universal in their appeal.

Eye shapes and overall design need to be simple and clean, with eye rims taking a more angular or possibly oval form. "Feminine" shapes such as bow ties are unsuitable for your unisex range. Angular eye shapes such as squares and rectangles are currently very popular and suit both men and women. Slender or rimless frames also appeal to both sexes for their discreet appearance, and are currently trendy. The simplicity of unisex designs makes them easy to wear and suitable for a wide spectrum of occasions.

The overall design must, of course, take into account the different bone structures of men and women. Materials are truly unisex. Lightness is likely to be the only important criterion related to materials, and equally important to both men and women. Detailing must be subtle. Decoration on temples or end pieces should be minimalistic and avoid motifs such as flowers. Gemstones may or may not be acceptable.

Express yourself:

Spotting the new trends in eyewear will require a keen eye next year Subtlety is a key element and intricate details add charm and originality. By Clodagh Norton

Women's eyewear spring/summer 2003

WHAT'S HOT IN 2003?

• MATERIALS: acetate, pure titanium, hi-tech materials, magnesium, aluminium, all lightweight materials, metal with acetate.

• SHAPES: rectangles; soft ovals; large, square Jackie O styles; large or small eye shapes, unconventional lenses.

• COLOURS: metallic; pink- rose, cream-white, barely- there neutrals; black, matt/shiny, transparency, green.

• DETAILS: hi-tech with comfort; engraving, customized/individual touches, patterned acetate, contrasts in texture/color, layering, grainy details.

• INSPIRATIONS: Art Nouveau, sunglass design, the '70s, ethnic style, intricate fabrics.

No single trend dominates eyewear next year. A number of this year's themes are developed in fresh contexts: the vintage references, the colorful materials, the soft, fluid lines. Individuality is achieved via an exciting array of minute details, exquisite decorations and a taste for the unexpected.

Frames for women are particularly expressive. There are very feminine styles with unusual but flattering eye shapes - rounded forms, soft ovals, delicate rectangles and more and more semi-rimless or rimless ideas.

Narrow metal frames are designed to offer high levels of comfort as well as stylish looks epitomizing the feminine approach. Plastics are bold, but not too chunky for women: some have layered effects that overlap like soft folds of fabric. Others play with textural contrasts, putting matt and highly polished, glossy surfaces side by side.

The temple, whatever materials are employed, is now the primary focus for decorative touches, however minute. Tiny inlays using colored stones, sparkling crystals or cloisonné enamelling, or the brand's initials or insignia, appear around the temple area. However, in a departure from past seasons' styles, they tend to be subtle rather than drawing attention to themselves.

The tips are also full of surprises: some feature a discreet laser- engraved logo or lettering, moved to a new spot for a different, less immediate impact. Moulded shapes and patterning are also being used at the tips of some of the more extravagant styles.

Colours for women are based around crucial classics such as black, or clear acetate with grain details, or optical effects which add texture. The bright pinks and lilacs that caught on in 2002 will remain important - some are teamed with pared-down tones for a new approach. Coloured lenses still speak volumes, and the paler varieties are widespread in the most trendy optical lines. Meanwhile, a palette of new, sophisticated "barely-there" neutrals are expected to add a very stylish dimension to the high-end optical lines for women.

Men's eyewear spring/summer

For men, there are some interesting contrasts. Rectangular eye shapes are the look of choice, whether in rimless, metal or acetate styles. Premium metals are particularly strong - titanium is at number one, although some of the other hi-tech materials like magnesium and aluminium are expected to grow. The combination frames, where plastic and metal are used together, continue to be an important feature.

Pure lines and weightlessness have been the main concepts of many of the men's collections. The temple has again been put to the test: designers offer new creative solutions for flexibility and propose coolly conceived, invisible hi-tech hinges. Attention to detail is a major consideration and is evident on all parts of the frame, not just where it is likely to be on show.

A tendency to stick to more muted colours is seen in these male eyewear designs, with natural metallic finishes being suggested as one of the stronger looks for 2003. Where classic colours are proposed, there is often a touch of something fresh and unusual, a subtle pattern or a slightly textured surface. Again there are references to fabric. Lenses are increasingly slightly tinted, and the graduated effects continue through lens and frame, matching impeccably. For the trendiest male eyewear users, some of the designs are closely related to sunglass shapes, with fashionable lens colors and strong, enlarged eye shapes. Those shapes are based on the rimless masks that make such a direct statement. Expect to see more of this on into next year, as men get a taste for designs that are lively and enjoyable to wear.

FLEXIBLE FRIENDS

A desire for properties such as lightness and flexibility in everyday eyewear has led to growth in the number of semi- rimless and rimless lines. Many of these products are made with springy hi-tech mounts that resist corrosion and fatigue. Particularly popular are the titanium-based alloys like Flexon and Titanflex. Colourful and easy to wear, the rimless and semi-rimless designs make an attractive option for the consumer who wants their eyewear to be modern but inconspicuous. They have become staple designs for a wide range of age groups looking for minimal eyewear that's not going to date.

Hinge design - whatever the frame material - has also undergone some changes. Temples are increasingly flexible, whether screw less or featuring spring hinges. Many different categories of eyewear and sunwear include this type of flexible feature: children's lines emphasize this area to ensure that young wearers are well equipped with durable, virtually unbreakable eyewear.

COOL AND NEW

Hi-tech gadgetry always provokes curiosity, and there are some brilliant examples coming up in eyewear in 2002. Ideas for folding frames were appearing last year: the focus is on the convenience of being able to carry the frame in a pocket or small bag, its size making it inconspicuous. Designer brands,  have come up with sun masks that fold away into a special miniature eyewear case. Ready-readers are now slim enough to tuck away inside a pen or ultra thin, hi-tech case.

A newly patented technology, where a design appears on the outside of a pair of lenses, obscuring the eyes but allowing the wearer to see out, has become the ultimate technique for those who love a slick logo. Names and initials are emblazoned on lenses, giving the frame the kind of "must-have" appeal that followers of fashion simply can't resist.

In the with the Old:

Traditional frame styles have long been an important reference point frame for eyewear designers. And the current celebration of all things old means that styles inspired by past eras are more desirable than ever.

The latest trend to hit the high street, the vintage look, is nothing new to the world of eyewear. Retro sunglass styles and many traditional optical shapes remain long-standing favourites among eyewear consumers.

KARAVAN is a French design collection of optical frames made by Prestige Optique International owned by a French optician Jean LEMPEREUR.

The company designer, produce and distribute his own metal and acetate models since 1966, with high quality and precision.

Each model credits the knowledge and the creation of Prestige Optique International. More than 100 models in three colours are presented by KARAVAN collection. KARAVAN collection is the most powerful product in the commercial design market with guaranty of advantage for users. Straight lines and colours give a strong personality to each KARAVAN frame; colorations are made in France by high quality suppliers and under our control.

A large target is concerned by the KARAVAN style. From Kids, Teen's, men and women who appreciate a creative touch. More and more consumers want a personal frame instead mass product; with KARAVAN collection they find different styles.  

Frederic Beausoleil describes his latest eyewear collection as offering "A universe of rich and subtle shades a fusion of colour-play."

The colours in the collection have been obtained "by a subtle mix of natural pigments and savoir-faire", which says Beausoleil, "enables us to develop our own exclusive colours." Beausoleil's acetate lines have been divided into three groups, Current, Avant-Gardiste, and Sensual, featuring complex patterned colours such as camouflage, marble and humbug. According to Beausoleil the trend in the metal line Le Metal is for geometric shapes inspired by Origami. Contemporary and striking, they combine metal fronts and sculpted temples, which are finely carved. The temples, covered with tinted cellulose acetate with subtle colour schemes, offer warmth and deep tones.

Laurence Lafont at Lafont describes two leading trends in her collections for spring/summer 2007. "We have focused on a mix of materials, including acetate and bamboo, acetate with lace stainless steel temples and acetate and leather. We are introducing new exclusive colour combinations of carbon grey and wasabi green, black and gold and orange. We have worked a lot on the 'jungle/ethnic' theme in this new collection, which has inspired new colours, new shapes and patterns." Lafont says that she is currently using some very special production techniques, including a "handmade, exclusive 'brush' effect on the front and temples of Sirocco for men", and "the liquid cutting technique used to make Surprise, the sunglasses that were awarded a Silmo d'Or in October."

Minute decorative elements on lenses and temples reflect the romantic mood of the refined adornments and Victorian embroidered designs found on clothes, accessories and bags. These embellishments include the ever-popular rhinestones and Swarovski crystals inlaid on arms or temples and, for the ultimate in decadence, on lenses too.

At Lacoste by L'Amy, the sunglass range focuses  on "the return of the pilot, and oversized forms." Meanwhile, according to Delphine Polycarpe and Jacky Masseron of Lacoste, the optical collection features a new front made of one single metal piece in trendy colours with a "double-sided printing effect". The colours of the Lacoste shirts are currently being used on the temples of the women's style LC1380.

Eye'DC has worked closely with Intercast and machine-tool manufacturers to develop new techniques and production methods for their frames in the XIT collection. This is a range of 27 models offered in a wide spectrum of colours, and featuring unbreakable NXT fronts. According to the company, "the range is solid, light and avantgarde in design, using the eyewear industry's most advanced production methods. All of these frames are either laser-cut or five-axis CNC machined." Christelb Salomon of Folomi, describes the latest Laguiole collection as "original and trendy, in particular the Bois~es line which offers frames made of wood and metal." Salomon says that currently there is a trend for placing focus on temple shapes, bright colours and material combinations. The Axebo range,a well-known eyewear brand in France, is targeting a young audience and offers bright colours and light frame designs. Salomon says, "Riverse is a good example of this line and represents French innovation. These new frames give you several frame colours in one."

Metalwork and engraved patterning on arms and temples remain an important trend. Inlays of colourful semi-precious stones and luxury details, such as cloisonné lacquering or Art Nouveau-style motifs, turn the frame into a piece of jewellery and give these designs a unique quality, as if they had been custom-made. Traditional colour tones such as antique gold or silver are a prominent theme.

Even in the latest selection of accessories it is possible to find some wonderfully classic flip-top and oral cases with retro details, "old-fashioned" finishes or traditional fabric coverings. Some of the neat, purse-style eyewear cases look like miniature evening bags from the 1950s while many of the luxurious mock-croc designs, leather cases and decorative metal chains nicely match the current wave of nostalgia for the past.

Designers will pay more and more attention to materials and finishing, to produce elegant frames, which are in tune with the latest fashions, color trend and accessories.
Color remains a major theme. The exotic shades of summer will be joined by more subtle, toned down pastels and pale smoky hues. Flashy gold and silvers will make a strong showing, appearing together or mixed with bright colors, traditional neutrals and tortoise effects. Designers will focus on shades of orange, violet and lilas, inspired by everyday items, from sweets and fizzy drinks, to hi-tech consumer products such as computers and cars.

Clothes collections and fabric trends inspire original colour concepts in eyewear while string the pattern for new forms and shapes. Synthetic metallic fabrics and primitives leathers such as ostrich and python have been snapped up off the catwalk and incorporated into frame designs. Panther and leopard prints produce "trompe l'oeil" effects within the structure of the frame.

Plastic layering will give rise to original color combinations, which make the frames look lighter than they are already. The layers of color will be extremely distinctive with contrasting colors on the inside and outside. Acetate colors will include tangerine, deep reds, "aubergine" and black with marbling effects, black/white contrasts and luscious, lipstick-inspired gloss or satin finishes.

BARELY THERE

Titanium will be more prevalent than ever, as the lightness of the frame becomes a major focus. Sleek, modern designs with sophisticated organic shapes will figure prominently in the optical collections. Flexible, light, unbreakable metal frames, which are simple but flattering, will continue to do well. Plastic will be an important medium for exploration and creative color combinations. Rubber is used increasingly for detailing, lending softness, lightness and flexibility to optical frames and sunglasses.

Metal/plastic combinations are a standard feature of most collections, as manufacturers find new design solutions that combine both materials. More than two types of metal and/or plastic are used in the construction of one frame for improved comfort and textural contrast. Attention is paid to the feel of the frame on the face: for example, ultra-thin arms are constructed in warm, tactile plastic or rubber that grips behind the ear.

Logo design is changing ail the time. Some frames will continue to feature visible, striking logos while others will favour understatement by reducing the prominence and size of the brand name and integrating it within the frame. On occasion the logo completely disappears putting the emphasis on 'in-your-face' quality, where the statement lies in the frame itself.

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