strong
constraint , of the glasses.
2. Solidity and hardness
the various elements particularly threatened because of inflection (such have
sides), must Be sufficiently solid and hard.
The solidity necessary is obtained by the good choice
of materials, the dimensioning and the degree of deformability.
3. Great elasticity of the sides
In addition, a quality frame is also characterized by
the good elasticity of the sides and the facility of
adaptation.
4.
Light weight being given the tendency to light Frames,
The light weight is another important criterion to reach. In this respect it is
important (the unit weight of material put aside) that the properties from the
required material are assured even for a reduced section.
5. Deformability
Another condition for a perfect quality of the finished product, as for the
precise techniques used for folding, working (for example, stamping) and
shaping by removal of chips (for example, milling, polishing).
6. Solderability and
weldability
the good solderability and weldability have a particular importance in the
manufacture of high quality metal frames. It should especially be taken care
that the materials do not soften too much at the time of reheating and that a
sufficient solidity of the assemblage points is guaranteed. In order to give
you an outline of the multitude of materials which can be used today for the
manufacture of a metal frames, we drew the following pictures which also
indicate their properties.
Spectacle industry in
SOLID GOLD
Gold is a metal element of yellow colour, of sharp brightness. On the other
hand, the white gold is always an alloy combined with gold and other metal like
nickel, palladium, cadmium or zinc. By alloy of these elements as well as
copper and silver, one obtains a gold titrated from 8 to 18 carats whose colors
can vary from yellow to red while passing by the white and the brilliant
green. A frame in solid gold assures greater resistance to corrosion and is
well accepted by the skin.
|
Chemical symbol |
Au |
|
Specific Weight |
19,32
g/cm3 |
|
Atomic number |
79 |
|
Atomic weights |
197,0 |
|
Alloy |
pure |
|
melting Point |
1063° C |
|
Brazing faculty |
good |
|
Brazing methode |
gold brazing (Au) and Silver (Ag) |
GOLD plated
Is a denomination corresponding
to a group of bimetals. In the case of plated, its characteristic is to be
always consisted the deposit of the noble metal, in the majority of the cases,
an alloy of gold. The second metal, the support is common, for example: an
alloy of bronze, tombac, copper nickel zinc alloy or nickel. The coating out of
noble metal as well as the metal support are dependent in an inseparable way by
welding under pressure (mechanical plating). By cold deformation the final form
is obtain. However, an annealing of softening is sometimes necessary. The gold
title varies on average between 1 to 5 % of the total weight. Gold plated is
realized in the shape of sheets, wire and tubes.
|
Chemical symbol |
|
|
Specific Weight |
|
|
Atomic number |
|
|
Atomic weights |
|
|
Alloy |
to be chosen |
|
melting Point |
|
|
Brazing faculty |
good |
|
Brazing methode |
Evry compatible
metals |

ALUMINUM
Strong, lightweight and durable, aluminium is a popular frame material. Its
rigidity used to make lens and hinge insertion difficult, but technological
innovations have overcome this problem. Aluminium alloys are also common.
Aluminium lends itself well to surface treatments.
|
Chemical symbol |
Al |
|
Specific Weight |
2,7 g/cm2 |
|
Atomic number |
13 |
|
Atomic weights |
26,98 |
|
Alloy |
Al-Mn-Mg-Si-Cu = seuls additifs possible |
|
melting Point |
660° C |
|
Brazing faculty |
mauvaise, possible seulement sous vide |
|
Brazing methode |
|
BERYLLIUM
Lightweight, hypo-allergenic and non-corrosive, beryllium is a metallic element
used as a hardener in metal alloys. Most commonly combined with copper in frame
designs.
|
Chemical symbo |
Be |
|
Specific Weight |
|
|
Atomic number |
4 |
|
Atomic weights |
9,0122 |
|
Alloy |
Be 0,5-2 % Cu 98-99,5 % |
|
Point de fusion |
1285° C |
|
melting Point |
bonne
après traitement préalable correspondant |
|
Brazing methode |
Métal
d'apport de brasage: Ag |
METAL ALLOYS
Metal alloys are now commonly used to produce optical frames and hi-tech
sunglasses. Manufacturers are researching and developing new alloys, which are
extremely light, durable and versatile, e.g. Monel, a commonly used metal alloy.
Which is extremely ductile. It exhibits excellent durability' and corrosion
resistance.
STAINLESS STEEL
Stainless steel is a strong, non-corrosive metal. Frames are produced from steel
wire or plates, depending upon the design. The primary advantage of stainless
steel it is easily adjusted and not easily damaged. Also adapts well to finishes
and does hot discolor.
See
Henry Jullien
TITANlUM (100%)
Lightweight, flexible, durable, corrosion-resistant, hypo-allergenic. Titanium
has been widely used in the aerospace, medical and chemical industries since it
was first brought into production in 1947. Il is used to produce highly
resistant, lightweight consumer goods (camera parts, hi-tech sports equipment
etc.)
BETA TITANIUM
This alloy, which contains 75% titanium, combines pure titanium with vanadium
anti aluminum, the only other known element that is lighter than titanium. Il
is flexible and can be cut thinner that 100% titanium. Other flexible,
fatigue-resistant titanium-based alloys have also been developed e.g. Marehon's
Flexon, a titanium/nickel combination, also called a memory metal because it
than return to its original shape. Flexon was originally discovered by
metallurgists who were creating titanium-based alloys for use in missile heat
shields.
20/20 09/2000
Rodenstock titanium frames.
Only pure titanium or beta titanium is used for Rodenstock
titanium frames. These extremely light materials have a very high durability
and are extremely corrosion resistant. Pure titanium frames have a titanium
content of between 99.4 % and 99.7 %. The remaining 0.3 % to 0.6 % is made up
of iron, carbon, nitrogen and oxygen. Where the design of the spectacle frame
requires a particularly high degree of flexibility (for example, when it has
very fine cross-sections), we use beta titanium instead of pure titanium. Beta
titanium is
also an extremely durable titanium alloy that is absolutely free of nickel.
Depending on the colour, the galvanic coating consists of a high quality,
nickel free gold and palladium alloy or pure palladium.
To ensure perfect functionality, other materials (high grade steel or nickel
silver) are used for screws, friction discs and the slide elements or the
springs in spring hinges. This is to prevent so-called cold welding from
occurring. Rodenstock titanium frames thus meet all the legal requirements for
nickel-free frames.
Nickel allergy
Studies have shown that up to 10 % of end users are allergic
to nickel. Where there is an associated sensitization, in most cases the
allergy is due to wearing costume jewellery.
But spectacle frames containing nickel can also cause allergic reactions.
Titanium, a so-called biocompatible material, is particularly kind to the skin.
This is why, apart from their other advantages of extreme durability and very
lightweight, titanium frames are particularly recommended for spectacle wearers
already sensitized to nickel.
TITANflex®
The material
TITANflex® would be a perfectly normal
frame if it weren't for that certain something: the material from which it is
made with a super elastic titanium alloy, the material of the future. TITANflex®
is over ten times more elastic than conventional spring steel. This super
elasticity is achieved by utilising an effect which scientists call phase
transition. Such transitions take place at particular temperatures. We have
treated the material in such a way as to gain optimum elasticity at
temperatures of between -15 ° and +40 ° Celsius. In this temperature range, the
frame reverts to its original shape even offer extreme distortion. Not just
once but always. That's why it always fits. The adjacent illustration shows a
schematic comparison of the pliability of TITANflex®,
on the one hand, and stain less steel, on the other.

Comparison of the pliabilily of
TITANflex® and stainless
steel.
The manufacturing process at
TITANflex®
This special titanium alloy is produced
by means of a melting process, generally in an extreme vacuum by means of
electron rays, vacuum arc or vacuum induction, Conventional heat and cold
transformation results in wire and also sheets or pips of the moulded blocks.
The material undergoes strictly controlled thermo-mechanical treatment to gain
super elastic pliability in the desired temperature range.
Applications
Because of its favourable
biocompatibility, these super elastic wires were initially used in medical
technology. They were first utilised in the USA as so-called orthodontic bows
in dental correction applications. With their almost constant tension over a
wide elasticity range, they offer ideal properties for low-strain treatment. In
addition, super elastics titanium alloys are particularly suitable for use with
instruments and machinery for numerous diagnostic and therapeutic activities.
Buckle proof, easy to control and extremely pliable, super elastic titanium
alloys are uniquely suited to these applications. It has been created a
revolutionary frame from this material.
Focusing on quality
TITANflex®
frames fulfils or exceed the requirements of Directive 93/42/EC for medical
products and consequently carry the CE mark.
Warranty: If defects arise which are due
to faulty workmanship or faulty materials we provide a warranty in accordance
with the legal requirements. Damage arising from improper treatment,
carelessness, accidents as normal wear and tear and consequential damage are
not covered by this warranty.
Points to Observe: TITANffex® frames are extremely flexible, but not unbreakable!
TITANflex® components should not be bent by more than 90 °.
GENIUM:
Goodbye metal allergies, hello Genium:
the world's first
allergy-free, "bio-compatible" metal
Allison S.p.A., a company of the IT Holding Group recognised in
the sector for its constant research on new, leading-edge
technological materials, has created Genium: the world's first
high-tech, bio-compatible metal. A revolution for the world of
ultralight frames.

Thanks to its nickel-free composition and absolute skin
compatibility and tolerance, Genium is the world's first material to
have passed the frame cyto-toxicity test, receiving the
"bio-compatible" material certification (Fraunhofer Institute safety
certificate, 10993 DIN and ISO standard compliant). This discovery
will allow all allergy sufferers to choose frames with "different
eyes".

The Genium alloy, used by Allison for the Try Ultralight line in
frames for prescription glasses as well as sunglasses, also has
other important features: corrosion resistance, lightweight
construction and a durable shape. This high-tech metal can be used
to manufacture ultra-thin frames, with a minimum thickness down to
5/10 mm, while remaining incredibly flexible and perfectly
balanced.
 |
 |
 |
| Diamant polish |
titan
|
Stainless steel
|
|
|
Stainless
steel |
Titan |
New Titanleg. |
GENIUM |
|
Traction
test. /N/mm² |
750 |
850 |
1100 |
2200 |
|
|
Stainless
steel |
Titan |
New Titanleg. |
GENIUM |
|
90
degree
folding
test |
3 |
4 |
5 |
9 |
KERONITE Ltd offers a revolutionary new environmentally friendly electrolytic
ceramic coating for Magnesium. The treatment is a very
effective substitute to the traditional toxic
chromating process. KERONITE is a corrosion resistant, hard oxide (400 ... 600
HV) of the substrate material. Thickness ranges from
10 to 60 microns. The layer is completely
uniform and well bonded to the Magnesium substrate.
FEATURES BENEFITS
-
Extreme hardness and wear resistance
-
The hardness ranges from 400 to 600 HV (Rc 36 ... 55).
In two body abrasive wear scenarios, Magnesium alloy
part coated with KERONITE has 20 times the wear of an
uncoated part.
-
Low friction coefficient KERONITE eliminates the high
friction and galling
normally associated with Magnesium. Once polished, the
coating has a friction coefficient of less than 0.15
(against steel).
-
High corrosion resistance Outdoor tests show months of
exposure producing no
corrosion. Salt spray tests have shown over 1000 hours
with rating 9.
-
Dimensional predictability Coating thickness ranges
from 10 to 60 microns and provides a completely
uniform surface layer of controllable thickness.
Coating rate is about 2 microns per minute.
-
High dielectric strength Withstands voltages in excess
of 1000 V DC. It is an ideal surface for mounting
electrical components
-
Excellent heat resistance KERONITE serves as a good
thermal barrier and thermal protection coating.
Ticral
Ticral, which is relatively new to the market, is an alloy of titanium, copper
and chrome. It is nickel-free and thus hypoallergenic. It's also extremely
lightweight and offers many of the features of titanium without the high cost.
It can be cut a bit thicker than titanium, which enables it to have the popular
look of a thin plastic frame while still offering light weight. The material is
also strong, durable and available in a variety of colours.
A coating for protecting titanium aluminide
alloys, including the TiAl γ+Ti3 Al (α2) class, from
oxidative attack and interstitial embrittlement at temperatures up to at least
1000° C. is disclosed. This protective coating consists essentially of titanium,
aluminum, and chromium in the following approximate atomic ratio:
Ti(41.5-34.5)Al(49-53)Cr(9.5-12.5)
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