DESIGNERS
New York designer Marc Jacobs, who leapt to international prominence as
artistic director of Louis Vuitton, launched his signature eyewear collection
this spring. Inspired by the contemporary but referring to the past, Jacobs'
creations are impulsive but committed to quality and attention to detail.
What effect has your career, first at Perry Ellis and currently as chief
designer of Louis Vuiton, had on your attitude towards fashion?
Through all of my experiences I continue to learn and grow. My attitude
towards fashion is the same now as it was before - I just have a larger field of
vision.
Why have you become so influential as a designer?
I guess being an influential designer has to do with appealing to an audience
of fashion-minded people. I imagine it means creating clothes and accessories
that people want to own.
Could you describe the main influences that shape the Marc Jacobs clothes
collection? What has Paris contributed? What are the American references?
The main influences that shape the Marc Jacobs clothes collections are my
references to fashion's past, what my friends and peers are into creatively at
the moment, music, etc. Paris has helped me feel free to indulge my fashion
whims - to create things impulsively. My American references are based on
memories of growing up in New York, films, and my fantasy of youth in America.
What kind of woman do you have in mind when you are designing your
signature line? Does the European woman figure?
It is important for me to believe that there exists a young woman who would
wear each thing I design. She doesn't have to be North or South American, Asian,
European, just a woman whose sensibilities appeal to me.
How did you bring the feel of your designs into the new Marc Jacobs
eyewear collection?
I like to think I bring the same design integrity to everything I do. My
eyewear collection is simple, with particular detailing - not average. Every
element of every pair of glasses is considered. There are references to glasses
I remember from the 70s, references to the glasses students wore, references to
the more simple dark glasses the "adults" wore.
What approach have you taken as regards colours, materials and shapes?
For both my eyewear and sunglass lines the colours of the frames are classic
metal colours: silver and light gold, as well as flattering slightly tinted
metals. The plastic colours range from classic black and tortoise to smudgy
cosmetic colours reminiscent of a chic 70s palette.
The colours for the lenses are the most classic - they are polaroid lenses,
which to me are about sun protection and function. They also look great; classic
and contemporary. Materials are also classic - I feel that the styles are like
these perfect glasses you find with just enough design consideration to make
them contemporary.
I am very happy that the styles and proportions are wearable and still
desirable, as that is the same goal I have when I design clothes.
How did you rise to the challenge of creating a sense of exclusivity,
luxury and originality in one small accessory?
The challenge in creating the eyewear and sunglasses was in making a series
of creative choices, as well as considering which elements were to be designed
so they would be particular and special. Luxury goes without saying - working in
great materials and quality of design.
Why in your opinion have accessories become so desirable? What gives an
accessory must-have appeal ?
Accessories are so desirable because they are attainable. Everyone can wear
sunglasses, shoes, or perfume, or carry a handbag. Accessories are also an easy
way to enjoy a designer's vision.
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