DESIGNERS

 

 

 

 

Once hailed the "messiah" of fashion by the French press, Christian Lacroix made his name as a couturier of lavish women's clothing back in the '8os. More recently he has turned to costume design for opera, ballet and theatre. 2o/2o Europe talks to him about his approach to eyewear.

In the '8Os, when you set up your couture house in Paris and staged your first shows, you were immediately dubbed one o! lashion's most experimentat designers From where do you draw your inspiration?
The history of art, my roots, modern artists, folk and ethnic costumes from everywhere, fashion from past centuries and decades, the street and, of course, my imagination.

What, for you, is the essence of Parisian couture? How does the Lacroix couture house fit into this tradition?
We are the youngest couture house, set up in 1987, in the same tradition as the other Parisian couture houses. Everything we produce is made by some of the most skilful hands in the world, using luxurious fabrics. The clue is in the city itself: Paris is a crossing point between the cultures of the East and the West, the North and the South.

What inspired you to branch out into eyewear?
I feel interested by anything connected with allure, looks and style. For many years, eyewear has not only been an accessory. The proportion, colour and shape of a frame are as important as those of a pair of shoes, a hairstyle, or the outfit itself; they complement one another. It's so important for everyone to have the right frame.

How do you ensure that the eyewear collections fit in with the Lacroix look?
I sketch them on almost each of my fashion designs which they match, following the same mood, inspiration and style.

You have a great passion for theatre and costume design. Is this reflected in your eyewear designs?
I think I work for a self-confident, fashion-conscious woman, who lives her life as if on a stage; she is a strong, modern character and likes to be noticed.

Who would you say is the Christian Lacroix woman?
My wife epitomizes quite well my ideal woman. I have no idol, our customers are all Christian Lacroix women, each in her own way, since a free approach to style is perhaps the most important feeling a Christian Lacroix woman must have.

What direction will the Lacroix eyewear and sunglasses collections, take on the coming season?
I think we are well known for couture detailing and extravagant but elegant styles, so we'll have wide proportions, and subtle details such as the house signature.

From a design point of view what would you say are the original features of the eyewear collections ? How have you incorporated your sense of design and colour? What frame material?
We have had several partners and each time we had to favour the techniques in which they were strong. In general, my ideal is something with colour. I feel more attracted by fake or real horn, tortoiseshell, and printed materials, rather than by metal.

You now have a number of different line and products including perfume, jewellery, childrenswear and the diffusion line 'Bazar' Have these Lines made the Lacroix labor more accessible?
We are very well focused on two very different kinds of customer: on the one hand, a sophisticated, wealthy, even extravagant customer; on the other, the large majority of women today, those whose dreams are inspired by their TV programmes and who send me wonderful letters.
20/20 Europe 09/2001
 

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